UTV Roll Cage Tube Sizes – Side by Side Roll Cage Diameter Size Guide


Turbo S 1.75″
XP1000 AND XP4 1000 1.75”
XP Turbo and XP4 Turbo 1.75”
RZR 900 2015 and up 1.75”
2014 and older RZR’s Perimeter 1.75”
2014 and older Polaris Ranger and RZR and RZR S and XP Rear Harness Bar and Rear Bumper crossbars 1.5” (4 seat versions have a 1.25” rear top crossbar as well)

General (Pro Fit cage NOT ROUND use PF-OUT & PF-IN clamps)1.75” top crossbar only (rearview mount)
Ranger (Pro Fit cage NOT ROUND use PF-OUT & PF-IN clamps)1.75” rear harness bar only
Ranger Crew (Pro Fit cage NOT ROUND use PF-OUT & PF-IN clamps) Use 9” Bolt On mirror for rearview

Polaris RZR 170 1.25″

YXZ 1000 1.75″ Perimeter Top crossbars 1.5”
Rhino Perimeter 1.75” Top Crossbars 1.5”
Rhino Steering column 1.5”
Viking and Viking 6 seater 2.0”
Wolverine Perimeter 2.0” Top Crossbars 1.5”

Kawasaki Teryx / Teryx 4 Perimeter 1.875” Top Crossbars 1.7”


Talon 2.0″
Pioneer 1000 1.75”
Pioneer 500 / 700 1.625”
Big Red 1.625”


XX 1.75″
Wildcat / Wildcat 4 1.75″
Prowler (must have aftermarket cage installed)


Maverick X3 1.85″
Maverick and Maverick 4 seat 2.0”

Maverick Sport X XRC (Pro Fit cage NOT ROUND use PF-OUT & PF-IN)1.85” on all other round tubes on cage. 1.5″ on bumpers

Maverick Trail (Profile cage NOT ROUND use PF-OUT & PF-IN)1.85” on all other round tubes on cage. 1.5″ on bumpers

Commander 2.0”


Choosing the best Led Light Bar for your UTV

There is a LOT of information out there about LED Lighting.  We recently added the entire line from GG Lighting, so I thought I would highlight a few things to consider and help you make an informed purchase:

I will use my light bar(s) to compliment my stock vehicle lighting


Putting a small light bar on your front bumper or behind your grill for minimal off-road use to be used in dark areas such as fire access roads in the forest or to simply add a safety factor when you have a hard time seeing at night with your factory headlights and / or fog lights.

We suggest our G3D series for this application. Our G3D Series will provide a very usable spot and flood beam pattern out of the same bar. This bar is not designed for extreme projection and it is more targeted towards an “average” off-road use application where you need to see everything in front of your vehicle and to the sides.

I will use my light bar(s) for slow speed off-road use


Putting a light bar on your 4×4 vehicle for slow rock crawling or slow off-roading. Another example would be putting a light bar on a vehicle that is not capable of high speeds / will not be used at high speeds.

We suggest our G4D series for this application. Our G3D Series will provide a very usable spot and flood beam pattern out of the same bar. This bar has more projection and a wider spread compared to our G3D and it is more targeted towards a slow speed off-road use application where you need to see everything in front of your vehicle and to the sides.

I will use my light bar(s) for high speed off-road use


Putting a light bar on a vehicle capable of speeds up to 75 mph where you need to see what is directly in front of the vehicle.

We suggest our G3 series for this application. Our G3 Series will provide an ultra spot beam pattern. This bar provides a complete spot pattern to reach out in front of you to see what you are traveling over at high speeds. This series will not provide any type of flood beam pattern. G3 series are best mounted on top of a vehicle and complimented with a lower G3D / G4D series LED Bar in front of the vehicle to take care of what is directly in front of you.

I will use my light bar(s) over 75 mph


Putting a light bar on a vehicle that are capable of speeds over 75mph. If you have a race vehicle or a high speed prerunner / off-road vehicle and need to see far out in front of the vehicle.

We suggest our G4 series for this application. Our G4 Series will provide an ultra spot beam pattern. This bar provides a complete spot pattern to reach out in front of you to see what you are traveling over at high speeds. This series is modular and has the option to change the lenses out between spot and diffused so you can dial the beam pattern in. G4 series are complete versatile and can be used either on top of the vehicle in a spot beam pattern, or in front of the vehicle in a flood beam pattern.  G4 series LED Bars have been extensively tested on our Class 1 race vehicles at speeds in excess to 130mph.

I will use my light bar(s) in dusty conditions


Putting a light bar on the front of your vehicle to see thru dusty situations such as following along in a caravan off-road or in a race application.

We suggest our G4 or G4SR series with a green lens for this application. These series are modular and you can change the lenses out on them. We suggest either one of these series (G4 being a double row, G3SR being a single row) if you are in need of a good dust light. Green lighting works far more effectively in cutting thru the dust than amber does. We are the first company to do extensive testing with this color and you will see it on a lot of our race vehicles. We strongly suggest running dust lights in front of the vehicle. You want your dust light to cut under the dust. Dust lights do not work as well on top of the vehicle.

I will use my light bar on the street

Don’t do it. Not only is it illegal, it is also extremely inconsiderate to other drivers.


We also carry the full line of Sirius LED Light Bars – these are the lights we have been using the last two years with AMAZING results.  Here are the quick links to both GREAT product lines:


Sirius LED


The Little RZR That Could Brings Home It’s First Podium!

It happened! Team SBSO Racing brought home their first podium and it just happened to be the season opener for the SNORE Racing Series! Shawn and Devan were able to snag the 2nd place spot at the SNORE 250 in Jean Nevada. This course was essentially the same course they run for the Mint 400. We’re here to tell you, this was the roughest course we have seen to date. 6 hours of rocks, whoops and technical turns made this a grueling desert race and we were proud to have been able to finish with virtually zero problems.

A few highlights that stood out. Number one being the absence of belt problems for the first time ever! We decided to run 2 belt gauges to determine the difference between clutch housing exhaust temps and direct belt temp. We used the Alba Racing gauge in the exhaust port and the Razorback gauge pointed directly at the belt on top of the primary. What we found was dramatically different. The highest belt temp we saw on the Razorback was 248 while the highest we saw on the Alba was just over 150. We were told that belts begin to really be too hot if the direct temp starts to get over 240. So, using this as our slow down, peak temp worked perfectly. We usually hovered around 200 on the Razorback and 120 on the Alba, and only saw the 240+ temp twice while trying to chase someone down at 75 mph+. After the race, we pulled the belt and it looked perfect. Still soft and pliable and no glazing. We were so happy to see this. So, our final clutch set up is on point. Here’s the breakdown.

  1. Polaris factory primary and secondary
  2. Two blue rev limiters in the primary vs. one. We’ve found this to be extremely important in the 21014-15 primary set up.
  3. SLP magnum Force Clutch kit. 3 lock screws per flyweight.
  4. SDI Clutch Alignment tool is a must! Turns out, our shaft to shaft distance was correct, but our transmission was slightly crooked.
  5. Proper belt break in and heat cycling.

So, we have left belt problems behind. Next issue to tackle…skid plate drama. Here’s why.

Our skid plate essentially became part of our suspension. Clearly we need more compression in the back. So, we destroyed our skis plate and cracked our transmission housing. A quick trip to the Super ATV website and we were back in business with an upgraded transmission case and some other needed wares.

All in all, it was an awesome experience and are incredibly happy with the results. Next race…Battle At Primm in April. Come join us!

Thanks for visiting!


SNORE Rage At The River Race Results!

Well, I think it’s safe to say that we have solved the clutch dilemma on our pro desert race car. Why do we say that you might ask? 4th place overall in our class for the 2 day event! Here’s what the final combination of clutch changes looked like:
1) SLP Magnum Force Clutch Kit – 3 Weight Keys + Lock Key
2) SLP Red 40-401 Primary Spring
3) 2 x Blue Rev Spacers In Primary
4) Black W/Silver Stripe Secondary Spring
5) SLP HD Rollers In Secondary
6) SLP HD Spider Nut
7) TONS of R&D With Hunterworks 921K Belts
8) And, Last But not Least…Polaris 14% Gear Reduction Kit

This solved it! Highest belt temp we saw both days was 259. That is on the high side, but keep in mind, that was 80+ MPH with 8700 RPM. The RPM’s were a little high, so we plan on switching to a 31″ tire vs. our current 30″ set up. We could easily add more weight to the Magnum Force clutch to lower the RPM’s, but we would prefer the larger tire. We had an almost flawless race weekend and we feel extremely fortunate. We are gearing up for the 2019 season and are excited to begin working with some new sponsors.

Keep in mind, here at Side By Side Outlet, we install the bearing kit in the transmission kit we installed in the race car. We also install the gear reduction kits and can rebuild your transmission. We warranty all of our work and we guarantee the best prices on transmission work. See you at the races!


How Are You Rolling? Or Sliding?

When we talk about CVT clutching on these side x sides, we would not be doing our job if we didn’t discuss those Polaris rollers and sliders. Have you looked at yours? What starts to happen as items in your primary/secondary clutch begin to wear, is those factory rollers…and worse, the factory sliders begin to wear away the metal on your secondary. As you can see in the photos, both the rollers and sliders begin to get worn and dig into the clutch itself. There’s a solution right off the bat that helps dramatically with wear, clutch engagement and smoothness of your machine. In this picture, you can see the square “pucks” vs. the larger heavy duty rollers.

If you catch this early enough, you can replace the sliders and keep from having to purchase a very expensive complete secondary clutch assembly. We have seen instances where people resurface the area where the sliders move, but once that metal is gone, your clutching system will never be the same.

The rollers are susceptible to wear as well, but usually take longer to damage the secondary itself as seen here:

Again, there is an inexpensive way to avoid having to buy a new clutch. What’s more, is that adding the heavy duty rollers will make your clutch engagement smoother, your upshifting and backshifting will be more consistent and your machine will drive better. Add a clutch kit to the mix and that good old Polaris clutch chatter we know you all love so much…will be a thing of the past. If everything moves smoother, it will also help with belt wear and breakage. We sell a full line of the heavy duty rollers. We are a dealer for SLP, Hunterworks, Ibexx and many other clutch component manufacturers. If you are a do-it-yourself type of rider, this is a moderate difficulty upgrade. If you would like, we are happy to refurbish your clutch with all new rollers, resurfacing and a new lease on life. Give us a call and let Side By Side Outlet help you get the most out of the investment you have made in your machine.


Our Road To End Belt Problems On 2014 XP1000

So, to update our journey to end belt problems on the 2014 Polaris XP1000, we were lucky enough to spend some time talking to one of the best clutch builders around. He builds and services the clutches for some of the biggest teams in desert racing. He has ran into the belt question many times in regards to the 2014. Based on his recommendation and wisdom, we decided to reduce the gear ratio in our transmission by 14%. We also changed spring rates in our primary clutch and upgraded all of the bearings in the trans to the Sandcraft Racing kit while we were in there. Last but not least, we added a second limiting spacer to the primary as well to limit belt travel. This will limit our top speed to approx 85mph, but substantially increase bottom end and acceleration. We are stoked to go test this set-up as we prep for Rage at the River in December. Stay tuned for the results!


Our Belt Woes!

Well, as most Polaris RZR owners have experienced…we too have had belt issues. Especially with our 2014 XP1000 desert race car. Granted, we are a little harder on our machine than your average weekend warrior, but we have still searched for a resolution on these CVT Belt problems.

Our very first race in 2018 was a 120 mile desert race in Southern Utah. This is a relatively short race for desert racing, but it was a great test for our new build. We were very conservative with the car the entire race (due to it being a new build) and we were pleased with a 7th place finish. We had zero issues and had to perform zero repairs. Then race 2 happened! Caliente Nevada. This bad boy was a 250 mile race in the blistering Nevada desert. We pre-ran the course and everything was fantastic! Car felt amazing. So, the day of the race…we start and begin to press hard. 19 miles in, we break the primary clutch bolt in half and spit the clutch out into the middle of the desert. That’s belt problem number 1. Turns out, the clutch bolt used on the 2014 XP1000, is a known weak point. Obviously, not known to us! There is an upgraded bolt for just this issue from Polaris. They knew there was a problem, so they changed and upgraded the design. There is even another level of upgrade for this bolt from a company called RPI. It runs about $100, but almost unbreakable! Race number 3, Jackpot Nevada. Another 200+ mile endurance race. 40 miles in, our driver (bless his heart. LOL) Devan, rolls the XP in a hard left corner and ends the day for us by starving the driver’s side engine cylinder of oil and taking out our engine. So, we have a custom race engine built. Race number 4, Knolls Utah. This is a 200 mile race and we started and ran strong for a whopping 70 miles. Belt issue number 2 reared it’s ugly head. We blew 3 belts in our first 60 miles. Turns out, we had destroyed the spider gear inside the secondary clutch and it was destroying belts. We had to finally call it a day when the time we had lost took us out of any possible placement finish. Race number 5. Wendover Nevada. The car again ran extremely strong, but went through 2 belts in the first 100 miles. On the second belt replacement, we went to restart the car and the starter just spun. We had sheared the bolts holding the starter one-way bearing to the flywheel. When we got back home, we tore the clutch apart to find that the primary clutch rollers had burned through their bushings. Most likely causing belt issue number 3.

So, here we are. With one race left this season, we decided to have Starting Line Products get involved. We went and had a long talk with Jerry Mathews over there and he took awesome care of us. He rebuilt both our secondary and primary. He also installed their Magnum Force Clutch Kit. So, we plan on inspecting the shaft alignment, transmission bearings and other drive components. Replacing all of the bearings in our tranny with race bearings and breaking in some new Hunterworks belts. Then, we head to Laughlin Nevada in December. We have a lot more confidence in our clutching thanks to the guys at SLP. We will post updates as we tune and pre-run the car.